Spaccanapoli
As its name suggests, this long narrow street splits Naples in two, from high-up in the San Martino district down to the central station. Because of the number of churches and palaces along it, has been likened to an 'open-air museum'. It's also one of the liveliest parts of the city, with many shops, craft workshops, buzzing university faculties and inviting café terraces.
The Church of the Gesù Nuovo - From the outside, this churchs looks rather grim with its grey ashlar façade. But venture inside, and it is full of baroque riches, Neapolitan art and memories of a modern saint. Before it was sold to the Jesuits in 1548, this was the Palazzo Sanseverino di Salerno, which was built in 1470. The original gateway to the old palace is preserved in the entrance portal. The rather bleak, grey, diamond-shapes stones that form the exterior wall give no hint of the riches inside.
The Church of Santa Chiara - Simplicity and peace emanate from this beautiful church, with its royal connections and enchanting cloisters. Rising from the ashes of war, it is one of the most important city attractions.
Piazza San Domenico Maggiore - This piazza was originally laid out during the Renaissance by the city's Aragonese rulers, and the aristocratic palaces around it were built later, in the 17th century. The monumental spire (guglia), erected at the end of the plague epidemic of 1656, is now a meeting place for students, singers, street performers and bancarelle (stalls). Access to the church of San Domenico Maggiore is gained via the monumental stairway leading into the apse. It's worth having a quick look inside just to see Caravaggio's The Flagellation of Christ.
Most jewellers and shops selling religious trinkets are located in the San Biagio area of Naples. Alongside the specialist workshops that make religoius statues, you'll also come across a vast array of colourful kitsch versions of chalices, figurines and Madonnas. Perhaps your last port of call should be Luigi Grassi's famous Ospedale delle Bambole (dolls' hospital) where he restores old dolls, puppets and figurines with the greatest of skills.
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