Naples: The Duomo and its surroundings
The area behind the Duomo, or cathedral, is a lesser-known part of Naples, often only seen on the way to the station. Its narrow streets are lively and charming and small markets are full of items that will take your fancy.
The Duomo: Behind its austere façade is a sumpturous cathedral with many treasures. San Gennaro exerts a magnetic appeal with the mistery of his liquefying blood.
Church of Santa Maria Donnaregina Vecchia: This church is a jewel of Gothic art with a long history. It had to be entirely rebuilt after earthquakes in 1293 and 1307 and has a single nave divided into two levels to create a separate area for the nuns. Make sure you see the tomb of Marie of Hungary in the crypt, and the Loffredo Chapel with frescoes inspired by the works of Giotto. Their brownish tinge is the result of a fire in 1390.
Santa Maria della Pace hospital: The 80m/262ft-long Lazaretto gallery on the first floor of the palace, whose walls and ceilings are decorated with superb frescoes by G. Diano, was used to house lepers and later the infirm until the 1960s. Relatives and friends could come and see their loved ones from the inner galleries to avoid contagion. The hall was recently opened to the public and sometimes houses temporary exhibitions.
Porta Capuana market: One of Naples' largest markets is held in via S. Antonio Abate, behind Porta Capuana. It sells fruit, vegetables, meat, poultry and cheese at unbeatable prices, along with household items, and is well worth a visit. The busiest time is Saturday mornings. Whatever you do, make sure you don't miss it.
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